Debris hut
From REWILD.info Field Guide, the free Field Guide To Rewilding
Note: the final step of insulating the inside of the hut has not yet been completed.
Contents |
[edit] Introduction
The debris hut works as a temporary shelter. You may find it useful while traveling long distances for a quick, one-two night shelter. You may also wish to stay in a debris hut while you build a more permanent structure such as a thatched hut, wigwam or tipi.
[edit] Description
The debris hut serves as a small, one-person shelter, using a thick layer of debris (leaf matter, grasses, conifer boughs) to both insulate and block wind. The thickness of the debris also prevents rain from penetrating the shelter, and the outer layer of ridging that holds the debris in place serves as a shingle to shed water. The small size of the structure contributes to the debris hut's effectiveness, creating a pocket of air warmed by the occupant's body heat (and aided by heated rocks, if needed in an extremely cold situation). In effect, the debris hut serves as a combination tent and sleeping bag.
[edit] Origin
Unknown.
[edit] Habitat
In order to build an effective debris hut your habitat should have lots of trees, and lots of debris. Pine forests work, as well as many deciduous forests. A desert habitat does not bode well for the debris hut.
You also want to make sure your debris hut is a safe distance away from any water sources that could either flood or otherwise dampen your shelter. Many experts recommend a distance of at least 50 yards away from the water's edge in a well-drained area. Damp ground saps your body heat more efficiently than dry ground. Morning fog and dew linger longer near a body of water due to the fact that the water warms up more slowly than the rest of the environment, thus making the air more humid and drawing your body heat away more quickly.
Also make sure your hut is not in an area prone to flooding. Precipitation miles upstream can cause a creek or river to rise beyond its current boundaries even if the local weather is clear and dry.
Avoid shady areas like deep forests, as the shade loses the heating benefit of the sun's rays. Also watch for dead trees and dead branches in living trees that could fall and harm you or your shelter. Conversely, dead wood nearby (but not directly overhead) can provide a convenient source of fuel for your fire.
[edit] Construction
[edit] Frame
The frame of the shelter consists of a ridge pole, measured to be slightly longer than the height of the builder's upward outstretched hand, and two y-shaped side poles. If the y-shaped side poles cannot be found, then a y-shaped tree can be used as the support for the ridge pole.[1] Also, the ridgepole can be placed on a stump or lashed with cordage to the trunk of a small tree.
[edit] Rib
Once the frame is constructed, the builder lays branches of various lengths along the ridge line to the ground forming a rib structure. Once the ribbing is nearly complete, the builder places thinner branches running sideways to form a rough lattice structure.[1]
[edit] Outer Insulation
Once the rib structure is complete, copious amounts of leaves are placed on the outside of the shelter until about two feet of leaves cover the shelter. Once this is complete, some light external ribbing is applied to prevent the leaves from being blown off or driven off by rain.
[edit] Inner Insulation
Lastly, place several layers of leaves inside the shelter to provide insulation between the occupant and the ground.[1]
[edit] Maintenance
Since debris huts are generally used for a short period of time, they require little or no maintenance.
[edit] Fluffing Up Debris
If you do end up using one for long periods of time, you may need to disassemble the structure and re-build it. The longer a debris hut sits, the more compressed the leaves become. Reassembling the shelter "fluffs" up the debris, creating new/more pockets of air, which provide better insulation. Rotating the leaves also prevents anaerobic bacteria from composting the debris. This may have advantages, and may not. Keeping it dry will prevent ribbing and ridgepole pieces from rotting and needing replacement, which could prove hard in harsher habitats with less materials.
[edit] Fumigation
Debris shelters can easily become infested with insects, particularly if they are left standing for a long period of time. A simple way to "fumigate" the shelter is to take a branch which has been lit and snuffed and place it inside the shelter. This will quickly drive the insects out.[1]
[edit] Deconstruction
When you have finished your stay in a debris hut, the customary act involves "deconstructing" it. Debris works as a mulch for the soil and the distributed debris helps return minerals to a diverse area. Building a debris hut removes this potential spread of nutrients. When you have finished using the debris hut, return the debris to the areas you have taken it from. This will keep the land healthy.
[edit] Concerns
It's important to consider that the entire shelter is constructed of tinder material, so a debris shelter should be constructed a safe distance away from a campfire, in contrast with a fire shield type shelter.[1]
[edit] Lore
The debris hut has been made popular by the literature and teachings of Tom Brown, Jr.
[edit] Gallery
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[edit] Sources
Wiki Authors
Books
- U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76
Web
- see References
- H2G2 Entry on Debris Shelters
- Article on Debris Shelters with pictures
- http://www.survivaltopics.com/shelter/debris-hut/
References
